Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Fuse Testing and Replacement (2024)

• Before you begin your repair, unplug your dryer.

• Your power cord may have four prongs rather than three. The additional prong is a ground connection.

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• Throughout this guide, keep track of each screw and reinstall it exactly where it came from.

• Use a nut driver to remove the screws securing the top panel to the rear panel bracket.

• Grasp the top and slide it 1/2 to 1 inch toward the rear of the machine.

• Lift the top panel upward to separate it from the chassis.

• Remove the top panel from the machine.

• Disconnect the control panel cable from the main board.

• Disconnect the drum light connector.

• Remove the screws securing the control panel.

• Lift the control panel up and tilt it away from the chassis to remove it.

• Make sure to thread the cable through the hole in the chassis.

• During reassembly, thread the cable through its proper hole before reinstalling the control panel.

• Use a small flat blade screwdriver or a spudger to unlatch both sides of the door switch connector.

• Unplug the connector.

• Remove the upper front panel sheet metal screws.

• Tilt the machine backwards and prop it securely, or have a friend hold it.

• Remove the sheet metal screws on the bottom edge of the panel.

• Remove the screws inside the door area below the drum opening.

• The panel is heavy and awkward. You may want to have a friend help you with this step.

• Pull the bottom of the panel away from the chassis about two to three inches.

• Lift the front panel off the small tabs on the chassis near the top of the panel and remove it.

• Make sure you don't snag the door switch wire harness as you remove the panel.

• Remove the cover plate screw.

• Remove the cover plate.

• Remove the screws securing the cord cables.

• Mark the cables with a permanent marker if needed and take a picture or draw a diagram.

• Pull the cord carefully down through the round hole.

• Make sure you replace the connections correctly when you reassemble.

• Remove the green ground screw.

• Remove the cord terminal block screws.

• Move the cord terminal block behind the rear panel.

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• Remove the rear panel screws.

• Throughout this guide, keep track of each screw and reinstall it exactly where it came from.

• Remove the screw holding the main board bracket to the chassis.

• Remove the screws from the top rear of the machine.

• Put on gloves before continuing, as the rear panel is sharp.

• Lift the panel about 1/2 inch and tilt it to the rear to release it from the vent pipe.

• Slide the panel off the vent pipe and remove it.

• During reassembly, perform the following:

• Make sure that the vent pipe is fitted into the collar on the panel.

• Make sure the tabs at the bottom are aligned to the bottom rim of the chassis.

• Position the panel so its screw holes match with the chassis.

• Pull the lint filter up out of the lint filter slot to remove it.

• These photos show the front panel in place, but the procedure is the same if the front panel is already removed.

• Remove the mounting screws securing the lint filter housing.

• Pull the filter housing outward from the chassis and down to remove it.

• Squeeze the locking tabs on the moisture sensor connector.

• Disconnect the connector.

• Label, photograph or make a sketch of the connector locations and of the main board bracket position on your machine.

• Disconnect all of the connectors on the main board front half.

• Label, photograph or make a sketch of the connector locations and of the main board bracket position on your machine.

• Disconnect all the connectors from the rear half of the main board.

• Remove the sheet metal screw that retains the main board to the main board bracket.

• Lift the rear corner of the main board nearest to the side walls of the chassis.

• You want to release the locking tab on the side of the main board.

• Slide the main board toward the front of the dryer to release the tabs securing it to the main board bracket.

• Remove the main board from the main board bracket.

• Remove the sheet metal screw holding the main board bracket.

• Lift off the main board bracket from the chassis and turn it so the bottom is exposed.

• Using long nose or slip joint pliers, pinch the locking wings of the harness retainer clamp.

• Separate the harness from the main board bracket and remove the main board bracket.

• Remove the screws securing the upper front bulkhead to the front of the chassis.

• Remove the sheet metal screws securing the top plastic portion to the upper front bulkhead.

• Remove the upper front bulkhead and set it aside.

• Take careful note of the belt path before proceeding.

• Be careful during this procedure! The idler arm is under spring tension and may pinch you, or it could damage the belt switch if the arm is allowed to snap down.

• Push the idler arm (the metal upside-down "L") up to relieve the tension on the drive belt.

• Remove the belt from the motor pulley.

• Gently lower the idler arm until it rests parallel to the dryer floor.

• During reassembly, refer to your notes or the belt path link to rethread the drive belt.

• Remove the screws securing the lower front bulkhead.

• While supporting the drum, lift the lower front bulkhead off of the hooks on the chassis.

• Lower the bulkhead about 2 inches to free the drum rollers tucked under the drum.

• While supporting the drum, remove the lower front bulkhead.

• During reassembly, tilt the bulkhead to the right to get the rollers under the lip on the front of the drum. Once the drum is on the rollers, you can move the bulkhead to the upright position.

• Use the belt to lift the drum a few inches.

• Swing the drum out of the front of the dryer.

• Note which end of the drum faces the front.

• If the belt is broken, stand in front of the drum and put your arms inside it. Lift it up and pull it through the front opening of the machine. Having someone to help you with this is a good idea.

• Make sure you get your drum back on the rollers when you reinstall the lower front bulkhead. Take your time and don't force it.

• The following steps show how to test and replace the thermal fuse.

• Disconnect the two spade connectors attached to the thermal fuse.

• Always disconnect wires by pulling on the connector, not the wire.

• If you aren't sure how to use a multimeter, take a look at this guide.

• Set your multimeter to the ohms (Ω) setting. If your meter has more than one scale for ohms, set it to (Rx1).

• Touch the probes to the contacts on the thermal fuse. The reading should be less than one Ω.

• Remove the sheet metal screw securing the thermal fuse.

• Slightly lift the screw end of the fuse first and then slide the tab out of the mounting hole.

• Lift the thermal fuse out of the mounting hole and remove it.